A glitch occurred this morning, lasting for about 10 minutes or so, that had all Google search results showing a warning that “This site may harm your computer”.

These sites may harm my computer?

Below are several blogs that mention this.

http://thenextweb.com/2009/01/31/day-google-broke/#

http://www.techcrunch.com/2009/01/31/google-flags-whole-internet-as-malware/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/pmtorrone/3241481388/

This might all just be funny if it weren’t for the fact that Google is a repository of a lot of information about us.

Privacy experts have long been concerned about the amount of data Google collects from internet users. Every time you do a search or use Gmail or any other Google application, you supply information to Google that it stores in its vast array of servers. We want to believe that information is secure or anonymous. Every time Google suffers a hiccup like this, our trust takes a hit and our concerns increase.

Update: A Google blogger explains the error, http://googleblog.blogspot.com/2009/01/this-site-may-harm-your-computer-on.html

No matter how conscientious you are, no matter how much physical security you provide for your laptop (or your desktop) the fact remains that the possibility of your computer being stolen is real. Once your computer has been stolen, there’s usually no way to determine if the data stored on your hard drive has been compromised or not. You may be among the lucky ones to have their stolen computer returned and still be the victim of data theft.

The easiest way to prevent a thief from making use of the data on your computer is to encrypt the data itself, or make the data invisible to anyone but yourself.

Here’s what Microsoft recommends for users of Windows XP…

This article describes how to encrypt a folder by using Encrypting File System (EFS).

Encryption is the process of converting data into a format that cannot be read by others. You can use EFS in Windows XP to automatically encrypt your data when it is stored on the hard disk.

The EFS feature is not included in Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition.

NOTE: You can encrypt files and folders only on volumes that use the NTFS file system.

1. Click Start, point to All Programs, point to Accessories, and then click Windows Explorer.
2. Locate and right-click the folder that you want, and then click Properties.
3. On the General tab, click Advanced.
4. Under Compress or Encrypt attributes, select the Encrypt contents to secure data check box, and then click OK.
5. Click OK.
6. In the Confirm Attribute Changes dialog box that appears, use one of the following steps:
   • If you want to encrypt only the folder, click Apply changes to this folder only, and then click OK.
   • If you want to encrypt the existing folder contents along with the folder, click Apply changes to this folder, subfolders and files, and then click OK.

The folder becomes an encrypted folder. New files that you create in this folder are automatically encrypted. Note that this does not prevent others from viewing the contents of the folder. This prevents others from opening items in the encrypted folder. For example, if another user attempts to open a Microsoft Word document that has been created in the encrypted folder, the following message appears:

Word cannot open the document: Username does not have access privileges
(drive:\filename.doc)

If another user attempts to copy or move a document from the encrypted folder to another location on the hard disk, the following message appears:
Error Copying File or Folder

Cannot copy Filename: Access is denied.

Make sure the disk is not full or write-protected
and that the file is not currently in use.

(Source-MS kb 308989)

Encrypting a file or folder in Windows Vista is even easier, provided you have either the Business, Enterprise or Ultimate version installed. Users of Vista Home Premium or Basic will need to find an alternate method, which we’ll get to shortly.

In Vista…

To encrypt a folder or file

1.Right-click the folder or file you want to encrypt, and then click Properties.
2.Click the General tab, and then click Advanced.
3.Select the Encrypt contents to secure data check box, and then click OK.

NoteThe first time you encrypt a folder or file, you should back up your encryption certificate. If your certificate and key are lost or damaged and you do not have a backup, you won’t be able to use the files that you have encrypted.

To decrypt a folder or file

1.Right-click the folder or file you want to decrypt, and then click Properties.
2.Click the General tab, and then click Advanced.
3.Clear the Encrypt contents to secure data check box, and then click OK. (Source-Windows Help & How-to)

Since not everyone runs Windows, let’s take a moment to see how this is done on a Mac.

Encrypted data is thoroughly scrambled and can be unscrambled only with the correct password. The best encryption methods—known as strong encryption —make it essentially impossible to decrypt data, no matter how much trickery or brute force the thieves use.

Encrypted folders are particularly good if you carry your data around on a laptop. In the office, you can often copy confidential files to a secure server, and you have other security tools (like locked doors and server-based backup systems) to protect your data. When you’re carting your livelihood around in a shoulder bag, you’re better off building the security into it.

Fortunately, Mac OS X has some powerful built-in encryption tools. It has included FileVault—which encrypts your entire Home folder—since version 10.3. But few Mac owners use FileVault, and security experts agree that it’s overkill, because it’s clunky and less than foolproof, and because it’s kind of silly to encrypt all your music, photo, and video files along with your truly confidential documents.

Your Mac also includes a less blunt instrument: Disk Utility. With it, you can create encrypted disk images that act (in most respects) like regular folders, except for one big difference—they won’t mount unless you supply the correct password; when unmounted, they’re digitally scrambled. You can even set up such an encrypted folder to open automatically (with a password) whenever you restart or log in to your Mac. You can then put only the files you really need to protect into that encrypted folder, while leaving your iTunes and iPhoto libraries, browser cache files, and less sensitive documents alone.

Here’s how to create such a folder and set it to open only with the proper password. (You must be running OS X 10.4.)
Create your disk image

First, launch Disk Utility (/Applications/Utilities). Choose File: New: Blank Disk Image. Choose a maximum size for your folder; I use 4.7GB, so even if I fill up the disk image, I can still burn it to a DVD-R. Under Encryption, choose AES-128 (the only encrypted option). From the Format pop-up menu (near the bottom of the New Blank Image dialog box), choose Sparse Disk Image. Give your encrypted disk image a name in the Save As field, and choose a storage location on the hard disk. I called mine Cryptobaby.sparseimage and saved it in my Documents folder. When you’re done with all of that, click on the Save button.

Now it’s password time. When the Authenticate dialog box appears, choose a password. Many of us choose bad passwords—we use obvious words or number sequences that anyone with a bit of patience, intelligence, and password-cracking software could figure out.

That’s why you should press the key button next to the Password text box. Doing so will summon Apple’s Password Assistant, which will help you generate a good, strong password. In the Type menu, select Memorable (it uses combinations of words, numbers, and punctuation that are relatively easy to remember). You can create shorter or longer passwords by adjusting the Length slider; longer passwords are, obviously, more secure. If you don’t like the password in the Suggestion box, click on the down-arrow button to see more. Password Assistant will rate each suggestion in its Quality bar. You can provide your own passwords; Password Assistant will tell you what’s wrong with them in the Tips box. If you absolutely must, write down the password and store the paper in a secure place away from your laptop; otherwise, commit it to memory. Remember that if you lose the password, you’ll lose the data in the folder.

Once you’ve picked a password, verify it in the Verify box, deselect the Remember Password option, and click on OK. Disk Utility will save your new disk image wherever you specified, with the name you supplied.

Test your new disk image by double-clicking on it and supplying the password. It should appear as a new disk in the Finder sidebar, just like any other drive or removable disk. The only difference is that when you eject it, the disk image file remains on your hard drive, though no one can read or mount it without the password.
Encryption in action

Now that you’ve created your folder, it’s time to put files in it. Since it’s a working folder, not an inactive archive, you’ll be adding files to it all the time. Perhaps you just need to protect certain project folders; in that case, those are the only ones you need to copy into your disk image. Subfolders are fine; you just want to make sure you have everything you want to protect, and nothing you don’t, in one place. Once you’ve figured out which files to include, just open your new disk image and copy them into it.

Check that everything works. Eject and try to remount the virtual disk. Log out and back in. Open the files you copied into the virtual disk, to make sure they work properly. Once you’ve confirmed that your data is safe yet accessible, you can erase the unencrypted originals (or keep backups somewhere else). Choose Finder: Secure Empty Trash to make sure they’re really gone.

For maximum convenience, you can add the encrypted disk image file to your login items. That way, it’ll open and be available whenever you launch OS X. To do so, choose System Preferences: Accounts and select the Login Items tab. Click on the plus-sign (+) button, select the disk image, and click on Add. (You could also just drag the file from the Finder into the Login Items tab.) Now, whenever you restart or log in to your account, your Mac will ask for your decryption password; once you supply it, the virtual disk will mount. If you choose not to enter the password, you can continue working without mounting the disk image. If you do mount it, you can protect your files by ejecting it at any time—such as when you put your computer to sleep or step away from your desk.

Finally, make sure that whatever backup system you have includes your encrypted disk image, and that those backups are stored off-site. (Source-Derek K. Miller/macworld.com)

Encryption on a Gnu/Linux system is usually rather easy to accomplish but the methods change based on which version of which distribution you’re using. For that reason I won’t try to cover each method but will instead refer my Linux readers to this Sourceforge article.

For those running a version of Windows that doesn’t provide built-in encryption there are applications available online and in stores that will allow you to encrypt your files and folders. In some instances these applications are better than the options built into Windows. Some offer stronger encryption than provided by the operating system. For the most part these are shareware, programs that cost money to download and install, though some may offer free trial periods. If the data on your computer is sensitive enough to demand high security, I’d recommend a commercial product designed for just that task.

Following are a few examples of shareware applications:

New Software’s Folder Lock (free trial, $39.95 to buy) With Folder Lock, you can choose either to encrypt using 256-bit AES on-the-fly encryption or lock files, folders and drives anywhere on your computer. Each Locker can contain your encrypted files as well as your personal list of locked items.

Furthermore, Folder Lock’s options like hack monitoring, stealth mode, data shredding, history cleaning, auto protection, portable USB autoplay feature & virtual keyboard can enhance data security beyond anything ever achieved. In addition, a locker’s delete, move and rename are password protected to prevent data loss.

SecureIT Encryption Software 3.1.8 (free trial, $29.95 to buy) Cypherix’s Secure IT 2000 is a simple, easy to use, 448 bit encryption program that protects all your files and folders. Features Blowfish Encryption, a powerful, customizable file shredder, a Secure e-mail module and full command line support. Encrypts and protects daya on all media whether floppy disk, removable hard drive, zip drive or tape drive. Runs on all 32-bit/64-bit versions of Microsoft Windows.

Dekart Secrets Keeper 3.11 (30 day free trial, $24.00 to buy) File encryption software that combines hardware and biometric authentication with 256-bit AES encryption to protect users’ important documents and files on hard drives and portable media. With Secrets Keeper, companies eliminate data theft possibilities while meeting federal compliance regulations like Sarbanes-Oxley, GLBA, HIPAA. Tailored to satisfy an increasing global demand for encryption of endpoint equipment, such as desktop PCs, notebooks, USB flash drives, and different portable storage devices, Secrets Keeper ensures data security without long deployment procedures or personnel training.

None of the above software has been personally tested and I cannot vouch for their usefulness. They are provided solely as examples. Explore at your own risk.

One last suggestion on this topic for today.

One of the easiest and least expensive methods of file and folder security these days is to use a USB drive to store all your sensitive documents and audio/video libraries. Don’t even put these items on your hard drive. Entrust them to a USB drive and with the drive removed and safely in your pocket, no sensitive data is on your computer for anyone to steal. Remember, USB drives have a finite life, just so many read/write cycles. So be sure you have backup copies of anything stored on a USB drive.

Laptop security is composed of two elements, physically securing the computer and securing its contents.

There are several solutions to each, so today I’ll be addressing the physical security of a laptop then move into securing your data in a future post.

Cable locks

Perhaps the easiest to use, the most obvious to would-be thieves and the least expensive solution to the risk of theft is to use a cable lock specifically designed for laptops. The best known dealer in these types of lock is Kensington.

Most laptops have a “Kensignton slot”, a rectangular slot usually on the side of the computer toward the back. This slot is fairly standard with all the laptop manufacturers. However, my HP Pavillion dv2000 lacks a slot, and other laptops and netbooks may as well. Check to be sure your laptop has such a slot before purchasing a lock.

These locks are handy for offices, the library, any “public” place where you might need to leave your computer unattended for a few moments. They are extremely difficult to cut, though not impossible. So while these locks offer reasonably good physical security, you should still not make a practice of leaving your laptop unattended for extended periods of time. There are cable locks that incorporate an alarm that will sound if anyone tampers with the lock. While this might save your laptop from theft, it’s also likely to cause you embarrasment if you’re using it as Starbucks or a bookstore.

Cable locks are relatively inexpensive and come in a variety of configurations. They are useless if you’re in an environment where there’s nothing to loop the cable around. You also need to be sure you don’t simply run the cable around a chair or table leg if the chair or table can be easily lifted and the cable removed from the leg.

Labels

Putting a “Return If Found” label on your laptop may help recover it if it’s stolen and later pawned or discarded, but it won’t help deter theft in the first place. Labels work best in conjunction with cable locks. Companies like www.stuffbak.com and www.trackitback.com offer an easy to use recovery system for items registered with them and carrying their label.

Of course this method depends on your stolen laptop being recovered by an honest person who calls the service to report it found. Still, considering the modest price of these labels, it’s an added layer of security that doesn’t cost a lot. It’s also safer than inscribing your social security number on your computer. No sense suffering identity theft along with the loss of the laptop.

Software Solutions

Software security is an approach taken by companies like Computrace LoJack. LoJack is “phone home” software. Once it’s installed (there are versions for Windows and Mac) and the computer connected to the internet, the LoJack software communicates with the company’s servers. If your laptop is stolen and used to connect online, this communication will help authorities trace its location. The weakness with this method is that the computer has to connect to the internet to be traced. If someone steals your laptop, removes the hard drive and pawns or sells the case, LoJack and similar software won’t be of any use. There’s another consideration with “phone home” software. It can slow your system down and is often tagged as a malicious process by anti-malware applications.

If your laptop is stolen for parts and to mine the data off the hard drive, none of the software solutions will do much good, unless you have a Dell self-encrypting laptop with Seagate encrypting drives and McAfee security software.

Another approach which actually combines hardware and software security is covered in this article on The Register,

Seagate is now shipping 5400 and 7200 rpm Momentus notebook drives with 320 and 500GB capacity and full disk encryption options. This is AES 128-bit US government-grade encryption according to Seagate.

Dell is building Seagate FDE drives into the Latitude and Precision notebook lines, self-encrypting laptops, and the OptiPlex 960 desktop. The idea is that such drives will prevent any data loss when the notebooks, or OptiPlex, is disposed of, lost, stolen or loaned to a third-party. The encryption key never leaves the drive and so is not susceptible to the cold boot attack. Encryption is carried out by a chip on the drive and takes place at drive I/O speeds.

Seagate aims to have across-the-board encryption and has Maxtor BlackArmor encrypting external drives, Momentus FDE notebook drives, Savvio FDE enterprise 2.5-inch FDE drives, and Cheetah FDE SAS and Fibre Channel data centre drives.

There is a hint that IBM and LSI will ship products using the Seagate FDE drives.

The Momentus FDE drives can be used in two modes. One is enterprise-managed with firmware that works with software such as ePO to configure and manage the drives. The other is a BIOS-managed mode in which a BIOS password is used to authenticate the system. This latter mode, Seagate says, can be used to retrofit an FDE Momentus into an existing notebook and so secure its data against loss.

Dell hasn’t released pricing information yet, but I suspect this technology won’t come cheap and will mostly appeal to businesses for whom data encryption is almost mandatory.

Next post we’ll discuss securing the data on your computer so that even if it’s stolen and never returned you can be reasonably sure the data is secure.

I have found my favorite OS/browser combo for doing what I usually do on the web, Ubuntu Linux and the Opera web browser.

My fight with Vista has gone on for over a year now and at best the struggle has been  a draw. Every time I get Vista configured to work the way I like, it finds another way to slow down, freeze and generally piss me off. Just booting into Windows is a lesson in patience. I have maybe 8 programs that run at startup, nearly all of them security oriented (sadly, a necessity with Windows). To use today as a typical example, it was 12 minutes before Windows was ready to go to work. Compare and contrast with Ubuntu, ready to go 20 seconds after starting its boot.

I installed Ubuntu in a dual-boot configuration planning on reviewing it then installing a real Linux OS for daily use, SUSE or maybe PclOS. In the past I’ve preferred KDE over Gnome, so I was prepared to dislike the basic version of Ubuntu. Well color me surprised. I not only liked Ubuntu with Gnome, but have decided to keep it and make it my default OS.

Much of the complaining I encouter in discussions about Linux center around useability. “I can’t do what I want to do in Linux” is a common refrain. That’s no doubt true for gamers, Photoshoppers and those addicted to their Windows-only applications.  That doesn’t describe me.

The primary uses I have for an operating system involve writing for the web, creating and maintaining websites and blogs, a limited amount of shopping at sites like Amazon for MP3s and keeping up with email and forums. There isn’t one of those activities that Linux can’t handle just as well, if not better, than Windows. Add the stability and security inherent in Linux and you can understand why I dread those times I have to boot back into Vista.

Lately Firefox has been a disappointment. Perhaps it’s because it seems to be approaching the level of bloat and sluggish response found in Internet Explorer with each new version. Granted, Firefox in Linux is vastly superior to its Windows countetrpart. Still, it’s just not the same browsing experience it was back with Firebird and Firefox 1.0.

Since Linux offers a host of browser types, I figured I’d do a comparison test. The clear winner was the browser I’ve long had installed in Windows but used infrequently, Opera. Since it renders web pages strictly according to web standards, pages that aren’t coded well look like crap. Firefox is more forgiving and I.E. doesn’t even pay attention to standards. Opera is fast, can import Firefox/I.E. bookmarks and has the usual options for type styles and security. The biggest obsticle to using Opera for everything are sites that are “best viewed” in Firefox or I.E. Some banking sites won’t accept Opera as a browser. So it’s still worthwhile to have the latest version of Firefox installed and on standby.

But for pure speed and ease of browsing and general web work, I don’t see how you can beat Opera in Ubuntu (unless maybe it’s Safari in OS X).

By now your home/small business router is pretty secure. No one can find your network by searching for available wireless networks because the SSID isn’t being broadcast. If they do happen to find it, they’ll find they have to provide a key phrase at least 8 characters long to access it.

Let’s say you had a party at your house and someone was able to watch you log into your network, or an ex-employee is still using his credentials to log in and download movies on your office network. How can we keep people out who know their way around the castle walls?

There are two settings in your router that will help.

Look for an option that provides MAC (Media Access Control) filtering. It’s usually on the Security or Filter tab. Every electronic device that connects to your network, wired and wireless, has a quasi-unique MAC address. This is nothing more than an identifying number, expressed as six groups of two hexadecimal digits, separated by hyphens or colons, in transmission order, e.g. 01-30-45-65-87-ab, 01:30:45:65:87:ab.

Your router can tell you the MAC address of each device on your network. MAC filtering limits access to the network to only those machines with pre-approved address. If you create a filter that allows only 01-30-45-65-87-ab to access your network, all other machines with different MAC addresses will be locked out. This again isn’t foolproof, MAC addresses can be spoofed. But few people would bother to go to the trouble of doing that just to gain access to the typical home/small business network.

Another way to prevent abuse of your wireless network is to schedule availability. This is usually listed as Access Control. If you shut off all internet traffic between, for example, midnight and 7 AM, no one will be able to use your network to access the internet while you’re asleep or your business closed. This also limits the opportunities for hackers to attack your network from the internet side.

Let’s recap: Your router’s SSID is unique and not being broadcast, you’ve changed the router’s password and IP address. Only machines with registered MAC addresses are allowed on your network, and the network itself is only available from 7 AM to 11 PM. You are using WPA2 for security with a pre-shared key at least eight characters in length.

While there are other more obscure steps you can take to further tie down your network, the above will provide you with enough security to keep out all but the most determined intruders.

Tomorrow we’ll begin discussing securing your laptop. Portable computers these days have just as many important files and documents as home computers. Once again I have to say that it is virtually impossible to absolutely secure the information stored on your laptop’s hard drive should you lose your computer. But we can take steps that will make the task sufficiently difficult that most people stealing or misappropriating your laptop will simply toss your hard drive away and install their own. You will still be without your computer but at least you’ll be reasonable assured that the information it contains hasn’t been accessed.

Let’s log back into your router’s configuration utility at its new address, 172.16.1.1. Type in your username and new password and click “Enter”.

On the same page where we changed the IP address of the router, look for two settings that should help your computer stay connected to the internet without disruptions, but don’t address security. First find the MTU setting. The default setting is 1500. If you’re on a cable connection, leave it at that. If you have DSL, you want to lower that to 1492. Then check for a setting that offers the choices of 10mbps, 10/100mbps or 100mbps. This concerns the connection from the router to the modem. If you know for sure your modem operates at 100mbps (and most modern modems do) you can select 100mbps. This will ensure your router and modem are working at the same speed. If you aren’t sure, select 10/100mbps, which allows for either option. 

Now we want to make a minor adjustment, again not for security as much as to ensure we don’t get interference from other electronic devices using the wireless frequency we’re using. Look for the Wireless Settings tab. There should be a channel select option, usually set to the default channel 1. If you are getting interference from other electronics in your environment, say a wireless phone using the 2.4GHz frequency range, try changing the router’s channel to 6 or 11. Channels 1, 6 and 11 are the only three that don’t overlap, so try to only use one of those.

Be sure after making changes to any value on a page in the configuration utility you select “Save Settings” before proceeding. You may be required to reboot the router as well.

Back to security. On that same Wireless Settings page, find the SSID. By default this is often set to the name of the router or the manufacturer. This is the name that the router broadcasts so other computers can find your network. On your computer, this is the name that shows up when you search for available wireless networks. It should be unique, but you don’t want to make it too identifiable. Using your name or address as the SSID is not wise. Instead, use a pet’s name or something similar, easy to remember but not personally identifying. The exception: A small business may want to use their business name if they allow clients or employees to use their network. Once all the computers that are authorized for your network have found it on their list of available wireless networks and logged in (and saved that login information as a preferred network), come back to this page and turn SSID Broadcast off. This will keep unauthorized computers from seeing your network and attempting to join it.

Now look for the Wireless Security settings called WPA mode or something similar. The first option is WEP. Ignore this unless you have wireless devices that refuse to connect in any other way. WEP hacks are widely posted on the internet and WEP can be broken in under 15 minutes by even the most unskilled hacker. The lowest level of wireless security you should consider is WPA, and WPA2 is even better.

(Note: these can also be broken and should not be considered absolutely secure. Short of disconnecting from the internet, there is no absolutely secure way to connect wirelessly. What we want to do is make it as difficult as possible to an unauthorized person to gain access to your network and the computers on it. Most hackers won’t bother trying to get into a well-protected network. However, if you provide a service over your network or do anything might lead a person to suspect that there are credit card numbers or other valuable things to be found on a computer on your network, your security needs will be much higher and beyond the scope of what we’re covering here.)

WPA2 requires a pre-shared key. This is an 8- to 63-character alphanumeric pass-phrase. For good security it should be of ample length and should not be a commonly known phrase. You’ll need to enter it every time you want to join the wireless network. So we’re going to select WPA2 and create a key. At this point you should save your settings.

Next we’ll make a few last configuration changes to the router, suggest a few optional changes that provide minimal security (but even a little security is better than none) and move on to securing your laptop. Later we’ll be discussing free software that provides protection for your computer as you’re using it.

Recently, on another blog, I posted a couple of stories about the increased risks computers and networks face from external penetration. Whether this is being done by the government or the hacker down the street, it’s an unwelcome violation of your right of privacy.

I’d like to share what I’ve learned working for both Gateway computers and D-Link help desks. Because I’m blogging from work, I’m going to break these tips into small blocks. Each tip is independent from the others, so don’t hesitate to put one tip into practice while waiting for me to post the next. I hope to post one a day until done.

A wired network, one which has ethernet cables running from the modem to the router and from the router to each device connected to the network, is inherently secure. Only someone with physical access to a computer wired to the network can gain access.

Wireless networks, on the other hand, are inherently insecure. Anything sent over radio waves can be intercepted. For this reason security specialists advise us to never conduct banking or shopping transactions that involve sharing our credit card number or other sensitive personal information over a wireless or cell phone or over a wireless network.

Yet there are a few simple steps that we can take to provide a modicum of safety for both our home or small business network and the computers we connect to that network wirelessly.

Security settings on a wireless router are hardly ever set up by default. You have to go into your router’s settings and make a few changes to ensure that no unauthorized computers can access your network or the other computers on the network.

The username and password you need to access your routers settings will vary from model to model. If you’ve forgotten yours, this list may help. Because those are so well known to everyone, the first step we want to take is to change the default router settings.

Open your browser and type in the address bar the IP address of your router. It’s usually 192.168.1.0 or 192.168.0.1. Check your router’s documentation if you aren’t sure, or try a couple of variations (192.168.1.1, 192.168.0.0) until you get a log in window. Here’s where you enter your username (admin, root, etc.) and the default password. The first page you see will most likely be the general settings page. Look for the router’s IP address (the same one you typed in the address bar).

We’re going to change that to a less popular private IP. It has to be an IP address not used on the internet. So it has to be either 10.x.x.x, 172.x.x.x or 192.x.x.x. For this example we’ll use 172.16.1.1. Enter the new IP address in the box where the old one was and select “apply”. Now look for the router password. Change this to a password you think up. Now reboot the router (there should be a button that will do this for you or you may have to power off the router for 15 seconds then power it back on.)

Once the router reboots, to access the configuration utility again you’ll have to enter the default username (most routers won’t let you change this) and your new password.

In the next few posts we’ll continue to secure your router, then move on to securing your laptop.

Why should you join Friendfeed and/or Twitter and subscribe to the tech-bloggers in the know? Because you might stumble across tantalizing little tidbits like this:

Robert Scoble - Twitter

“Microsoft has something cool coming out tomorrow night. Will it make me cry? No, but it might get me to sing its praises.”

Apple Introduces Revolutionary New Laptop With No Keyboard

Amazing! What will Jobs think of next? Maybe a mouse with no buttons?

There are many good reasons to consider a move to Gnu/Linux as your primary operating system in 2009.Most of them have been discussed in other blogs and forums, so I won’t go into them all here. Instead I’ll just say that if you’re tired of dealing with Windows but can’t afford a Mac, this may be the year to consider a move to a free and powerful operating system, Gnu/Linux.

There are many versions available. This is one of the freedoms that Gnu/Linux offers. You aren’t restricted to a single configuration. Are you a media nut? There’s a version for you, with the most popular and useful media software preinstalled. Just need a basic OS to surf the web and perform office work? You’re in luck. Do you spend most of your time online updating your blog, tweaking your website, conversing in Friendfeed? You can set up Gnu/Linux to perfectly meet your needs. And none of this will cost you a dime.

There is a cost involved though. You’ll need to invest some time getting familiar with the Gnu/Linux file system, learning how to add and remove software and finding quality replacements for your old Windows-only (and very expensive) software like Office, Photoshop and Dreamweaver.

This can be daunting for someone completely unfamiliar with any OS other than Windows. But then, Windows can be daunting to someone completely unfamiliar with computers.

Thankfully, there’s plenty of help available online. One complaint about Gnu/Linux support sites is that too often they’re geared toward those somewhat comfortable with command lines and the Unix underpinnings of Gnu/Linux. Sometimes the people that contribute to these sites have little patience for the total newcomer. RTFM is a common bit of unhelpful advice to those unsure where to even find the manual.

There’s a way to avoid this situation. Start with a version of Gnu/Linux that strives to make it as easy as possible to migrate from Windows to Gnu/Linux and find a friendly forum where no one will hold your inexperience against you.

(uploaded from UbuntuStudio, resized in Gimp)

For the first solution I would recommend Ubuntu Linux. It’s a full-featured, stable version with a look and feel that should be familiar to those used to Windows. It can be installed on either laptops or desktop computers (I have it installed on both). You may need a bit of advice on partitioning your hard drive if you want to set up a dual-boot environment, Windows in one partition and Ubuntu in another. I usually recommend this setup as it avoids a complete divorce from Windows. You may have games or software that only works in Windows. Dual-booting allows you to switch back and forth between Windows and Gnu/Linux with a simple reboot whenever you need to change systems. Dual-booting also allows you to test drive Ubuntu without sacrificing your Windows setup. Don’t like Ubuntu? Just boot into Windows using your Windows installation disk, rebuild your boot loader and MBR, boot into Windows and delete the Gnu/Linux partition. That may sound complex, but it can be done safely and easily in under 5 minutes.

For the second solution I’d like to recommend the Ubuntu Tech Support Forum. It’s a brand new venture, opened today by Bruce Wagner. He announced his intention to start a new Ubuntu forum on Twitter, and since I’m a recent convert to Ubuntu myself, I just had to check it out. There’s not much to be seen there just yet, but the promise is evident.  If you are thinking of checking out Ubuntu you should definitely bookmark that forum and check back often. If you’re an Ubuntu guru, I’m sure Bruce would welcome your input.

For general information on Gnu/Linux from another friendly and informative source, I’d recommend the All Things Linux forum at Scot’s Newsletter forums. (Disclaimer: I’m an administrator of Scot’s forums, but my opinions as to the usefullness and freindly atmosphere of our Linux forum have been validated by many others.) The ATL forum is great for learning about Linux in all its forms, but Bruce’s forum is specifically geared toward Ubuntu.

There are worthwhile alternatives to the expensive, bloated and crash-prone Windows OS. It may present a bit of a learning curve, but so did Windows when you first encountered it. And the rewards of switching to an open source OS are great. I have every reason to believe you won’t regret looking into Gnu/Linux and Ubuntu.